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March 29, 2006 |
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The Lotus Leaf Cafe, featuring Vietnamese and pan-Asian cuisine, is an inviting little jewel of a restaurant tucked away in a corner of Cary. It is located in a strip mall that doesn't immediately look like it would house one of the area's best ethnic eateries. Actually, no qualifiers are necessary; the Lotus Leaf Cafe is one of the finest restaurants in the triangle in any category. An inviting atmosphere, accompanied by a diverse selection of wines, exotic beverages, and healthy entrees, make this a location to discover for lunch, after work, and dinner. Our waitress guided us capably through the menu. The Vietnamese chef and owner, Khai, is justifiably proud of his wine list, which is dominated by the whites that complement Asian food. Dessert wines and sakes are also well represented. Wine suggestions are given for all entrees in the menu. In keeping with the chef's emphasis on the importance of wine to a meal, Friday and Saturday nights include tableside wine tastings, as well as live jazz. In addition to the excellent wine list, a couple other items from the beverage list are notable. Many types of tea are available, including Dragon and Phoenix Prized Green Tea Bulbs, which are compact until they hit hot water, where they expand like Japanese paper flowers. A classic and delicious Vietnamese coffee is available, made with sweetened condensed milk. For the truly adventurous, there is the richly refreshing "Weasel coffee" which, I am told, has been made extra-yummy because the beans have been eaten and regurgitated by rare Vietnamese weasels! The menu consists of both familiar classics like summer rolls and curry coconut chicken, and some extraordinary offerings like Saigon Sizzling Crepe and Caramelized Catfish in a clay pot. As I discovered, even the more standard fare is given a tweak. The summer rolls are the best I’ve ever had, resilient and fresh, with shreds of tangy green mango. The vegetarian version is as good (if not better!) with the chef's signature textured tofu replacing the shrimp and chicken of the meatatarian version. The vegetarian options in the menu will thrill anyone who is tired of choosing entrees by default, since there are several fantastic-sounding dishes to choose from, including Stuffed Tofu in Tomato-Onion Sauce and Green Papaya and Mango Salad. The chef works with an unusual type of textured tofu that provides a wonderful contrast to the usual bland variety. Nothing disappoints, but don't miss the Green Mussels in Coconut-Curry Sauce appetizer. I've fantasized about these a dozen times since our dinner-the waitperson whisks the lid off a clay pot and you are blasted with aromatic steam. The mussels are large and succulent, bathed in a thin, intensely savory broth. The Saigon crepes are also delicious, and are the most popular lunch item. An instant addition to my all-time favorite comfort food list, the crepes are made from rice flour and are crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. They are filled with either pork, shrimp or textured tofu. Overall, the emphasis is on health and lightness, without sacrificing flavor. Prices are modest, with entrees ranging from $9.50 to $14.00. Unusual in an Asian restaurant, the Lotus Leaf Cafe offers several excellent dessert options. Chef Khai explains that the French colonial influence can be seen in the use of dairy and eggs. As well as tropical fruit and sorbet options for the virtuous, there is crème brulee cheesecake for the rest of us. Celebrating two years in business, this spring brings some fresh changes for the restaurant. A month long Spring Celebration starts in April with weekly art presentations and live jazz. It will feature artwork from Asia and local Triangle artists. Lotus Leaf will also start opening for Lunch on Saturdays! There will be a new Appetizers Menu, as well as a large selection of Asian beer, sake and wine. Early birds can receive half-price on appetizers from 5pm-6pm on weeknights. Lotus Leaf’s new Spring menu is loaded with healthy dishes and tropical drinks. |
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