Biaggi's Ristorante Italiano
1060 Darrington Drive
Cary, NC 27513
919.468-7157

December 29, 2005
By Mimi (ZSpotlight Restaurant/Nightlife Editor)

Where do you go when you want an extravagant pre-theater or special occasion dining experience, but can't stomach the extravagant prices that come along with it? Believe it or not, your best choice in The Triangle is the chain restaurant that refuses to act like one: Biaggi's Ristorante Italiano in Cary.

Biaggi's is certainly not your typical Italian restaurant with wax-covered Chianti bottles, checkered tablecloths, and Mama's famous spaghetti and meatballs as the draw. Here you will find white tablecloths, leather booths, urban contemporary warmth, professional and highly-trained service, and soft jazz lightly dancing in the background. But don't expect stuffy, because they'll have none of that here. Whether you're on a date, entertaining work clients or out with a large group – which is their specialty -- you'll feel comfortable yet pampered, and enjoy an excellent meal.

Based in the Midwest, owner Todd Hovendon's exciting and uplifting chain is growing and expanding at an astounding rate, and we are glad he extended his entrepreneurial arm into Cary. With competitors like Carrabbas and Olive Garden for style of food and price, and a creative menu like 518 West, Biaggi's surpasses all in understated elegance. Think steakhouse decadence for a PF Chang's price, which is Hovendon's goal. He has found the key to making upscale dining approachable.

But enough about the atmosphere! That's an enticement, but it's the food that keeps people coming back. A menu that is always growing and reinventing itself is their key. It's all about simple, fresh, and new flavors cleanly presented with well-informed, effective and carefully paced service.

Your meal will start with Biaggi's butter, which is garlic-infused olive oil with parmesan cheese, for dipping your variety of Italian breads. Perhaps then an appetizer like the spicy crab and lobster al forno with crisp flatbread, calamari, steamed clams, or a nice minestrone or salad. For your entrée, you can choose from rotisserie roasted meats, seafood, veal, pastas (even gluten-free, by request), or grill specials. Everything is a la carte and portioned more than adequately, so you might consider going family-style to leave room for dessert. The Rigatone Bolognese has a most wonderful sage sauce, if you're a sausage fan. Lovers of Eggplant Parmesan will find Biaggi's version tender, firm and never overbreaded. For dessert, you simply must try the extraordinary White Chocolate Bread Pudding, but the Crème Brulee or the Tiramisu in a river of espresso and covered with chocolate shavings will also serve as a nice finish. Coffee lovers will find the cappuccino and espresso they crave, served traditionally.

To enhance your meal, you'll happily find an extensive selection of wines, predominantly Californian and Italian, with a relatively low markup. Generous pours on your by-the-glass selections encourage trying different wines, or even switching to their notable martinis, rather than committing to a bottle.

I don't live in Cary, but once a month a dear friend and I head out to the Preston area and enjoy a nice evening catching up, sipping martinis and trying a new dish and decadent dessert at Biaggi's. Why not give it a try yourself? You won't spend a lot of money but I guarantee you will feel like you've had a fabulous night out.

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